What to Do About Fine Lines That Skincare Can't Fix
Fine lines are often the first visible sign of ageing. They appear around the eyes, across the forehead, and beside the mouth, subtle at first but gradually becoming more pronounced. For many people, fine lines are a source of frustration, especially when expensive serums and creams fail to deliver the promised results.
If you've invested in anti-ageing skincare without seeing meaningful improvement, it's not because you haven't found the "right" product. Fine lines are structural changes in the deeper layers of skin, and surface-level treatments simply can't reach the collagen and elastin networks where the problem originates.
This guide explains why fine lines form, why topical products have limitations, and which treatments genuinely reduce their appearance.
Why Fine Lines Develop
Fine lines form when the skin's structural support system weakens. Understanding this process helps you choose treatments that actually address the root cause.
Collagen and elastin breakdown is the primary driver. Collagen provides structure and firmness, whilst elastin gives skin its ability to snap back after being stretched or compressed. Starting in your mid-20s, collagen production declines by roughly 1% per year. Elastin degrades more slowly but still deteriorates with age and sun exposure.
As these proteins break down, skin loses its ability to maintain a smooth, taut surface. Areas of frequent movement (around the eyes, forehead, mouth) develop lines first because repeated muscle contractions fold and crease the overlying skin. When collagen levels are high, skin bounces back. When collagen is depleted, the creases become permanent.
Repetitive facial expressions contribute significantly. Every time you squint, smile, frown, or raise your eyebrows, you're creating temporary folds in the skin. Over decades, these repeated movements etch lines into areas where collagen has thinned. This is why expression lines (crow's feet, forehead lines, frown lines) develop in predictable patterns.
Sun damage accelerates collagen breakdown dramatically. UV radiation generates free radicals that attack collagen fibres, breaking them down faster than your body can replace them. Sun damage also impairs fibroblast function, reducing the skin's ability to produce new collagen. People who spend significant time outdoors without sun protection develop fine lines and wrinkles earlier and more severely than those who protect their skin consistently.
Dehydration makes fine lines more visible. Well-hydrated skin appears plumper and smoother, camouflaging shallow lines. Dehydrated skin accentuates every line and crease. Whilst hydration doesn't eliminate fine lines, it does improve their appearance temporarily.
Smoking is one of the most destructive factors for skin. It constricts blood vessels, reducing oxygen and nutrient delivery to skin cells. It depletes vitamin C, a critical cofactor for collagen synthesis. And the repetitive pursing motion involved in smoking creates characteristic vertical lines around the mouth. Smokers develop fine lines and wrinkles significantly earlier than non-smokers.
Why Topical Products Aren't Enough
Most anti-ageing skincare targets fine lines through hydration, mild exfoliation, or stimulation of collagen production. These approaches provide modest, temporary improvements but can't produce dramatic, lasting change.
Moisturisers and hyaluronic acid plump the skin temporarily by drawing moisture into the outer layers. This makes fine lines less noticeable for a few hours, but the effect disappears as the skin dries out. Hydration is supportive but not transformative.
Retinoids (retinol, tretinoin) are the most effective topical treatment. They accelerate cellular turnover and stimulate fibroblast activity, leading to increased collagen production over time. With consistent use (six months to a year), retinoids can produce visible improvements in fine lines.
However, retinoids work slowly, and results are modest compared to in-office treatments. They also cause irritation, dryness, and peeling in many users, particularly when starting treatment. Whilst retinoids should be part of any anti-ageing skincare routine, they can't match the collagen-stimulating power of regenerative treatments.
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that signal skin cells to perform specific functions, including collagen production. The evidence is mixed, some peptides (like Matrixyl) show promise in clinical studies, whilst others lack robust data. They're worth incorporating into a routine but shouldn't replace proven treatments.
Treatments That Genuinely Reduce Fine Lines
Effective treatment requires stimulating significant collagen production deep in the dermis, where topical products can't reach.
Platelet-rich plasma (PRP) therapy triggers genuine collagen regeneration. PRP uses concentrated growth factors from your own blood to stimulate fibroblast activity, increase collagen and elastin synthesis, and improve skin quality from within.
The procedure involves drawing a small amount of blood, processing it in a centrifuge to concentrate the platelets, and applying the PRP to the skin via microneedling or direct injection. Microneedling creates thousands of controlled micro-channels in the dermis, triggering a wound-healing response. When PRP is applied immediately after, the growth factors penetrate deeply, amplifying collagen production.
Clinical studies demonstrate significant improvements in fine lines. Research published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that patients receiving PRP facials experienced substantial increases in collagen density and skin elasticity. Fine lines around the eyes and mouth were visibly reduced within three months, with results lasting 12 to 18 months.
Most patients require two to three treatments spaced four to six weeks apart for optimal outcomes. Initial improvements (smoother texture, brighter skin) appear within two to three weeks. More substantial changes, including visibly reduced fine lines, emerge over two to three months as new collagen forms.
Botulinum toxin (Botox, Dysport) prevents fine lines caused by muscle movement. It works by temporarily relaxing the muscles responsible for creating expression lines. When forehead muscles, crow's feet muscles, or frown muscles are relaxed, the overlying skin stops creasing, allowing existing lines to soften and preventing new ones from forming.
Botox is highly effective for dynamic lines (those that appear with facial expressions) but doesn't improve static lines (those visible at rest) caused by collagen loss. Results last three to four months before repeat treatment is needed.
Dermal fillers restore lost volume beneath fine lines, lifting and smoothing the overlying skin. Hyaluronic acid fillers placed strategically in areas like the tear troughs, nasolabial folds, or marionette lines can dramatically reduce the appearance of lines caused by volume loss.
Fillers provide immediate improvement but don't stimulate collagen production or improve skin quality. They're temporary (lasting 6-18 months) and work best in combination with treatments that genuinely regenerate tissue.
Fractional laser resurfacing uses targeted laser energy to create columns of thermal injury in the skin, triggering collagen remodelling. Fractional CO2 and erbium lasers are most commonly used for fine lines. They produce significant improvements but come with considerable downtime (5-10 days of redness, swelling, and peeling) and risks of hyperpigmentation.
Chemical peels exfoliate the outer layers of skin, promoting cell turnover and mild collagen stimulation. Medium-depth peels (TCA) can improve fine lines, though multiple treatments are usually needed. Superficial peels improve texture and tone but have minimal impact on fine lines caused by collagen loss.
Combining Treatments for Maximum Results
Fine lines rarely occur in isolation. Most people have a combination of expression lines, volume loss, and overall collagen depletion. Combining treatments addresses these issues simultaneously.
For example, someone with crow's feet, forehead lines, and loss of skin firmness might benefit from Botox to relax the muscles creating expression lines, combined with PRP therapy to rebuild collagen and improve overall skin quality. The Botox provides immediate smoothing, whilst PRP delivers long-term regeneration that enhances texture and resilience.
Similarly, combining PRP with microneedling produces superior results compared to either treatment alone. Microneedling triggers collagen production through controlled injury, whilst PRP amplifies that response with concentrated growth factors.
Lifestyle Factors That Support Results
Clinical treatments work best when supported by daily habits that protect collagen and optimise skin health.
Sun protection is non-negotiable. UV radiation is the primary driver of collagen breakdown and premature fine lines. Wear broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher every day, even on cloudy days. Reapply every two hours when outdoors. Mineral sunscreens (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) are particularly effective and less likely to irritate sensitive skin.
Retinoid use accelerates results. Incorporate a retinoid (retinol or prescription tretinoin) into your nightly routine. Start slowly to build tolerance, and always use sunscreen during the day, as retinoids increase sun sensitivity. Consistent retinoid use supports collagen production and enhances the results of in-office treatments.
Antioxidants protect existing collagen. Vitamin C serums neutralise free radicals that break down collagen. Apply in the morning under sunscreen for maximum photoprotection. Look for formulations with 10-20% L-ascorbic acid in opaque, airtight packaging.
Stay hydrated. Drink at least two litres of water daily to maintain skin hydration from within. Well-hydrated skin appears plumper and makes fine lines less noticeable. Combine internal hydration with topical moisturisers containing hyaluronic acid or glycerin.
Avoid smoking and limit alcohol. Smoking dramatically accelerates collagen breakdown and fine line formation. Alcohol dehydrates skin and dilates blood vessels, contributing to premature ageing. Both habits undermine the benefits of any treatment you pursue.
Get adequate sleep. During deep sleep, your body releases growth hormone, which drives cellular repair and collagen synthesis. Chronic poor sleep disrupts these processes, accelerating visible ageing. Aim for seven to nine hours nightly.
What to Expect from Treatment
Fine lines don't disappear overnight. Treatments that genuinely rebuild collagen require time to produce visible results.
With PRP therapy, early improvements (smoother texture, brighter skin) often appear within two to three weeks. More substantial reductions in fine lines emerge over the following two to three months as collagen production ramps up. Results peak around the three-month mark and can last 12 to 18 months before maintenance treatments are needed.
Botox provides rapid results, with muscle relaxation beginning within three to five days and full effects visible within two weeks. Lines caused by muscle movement soften significantly, though static lines (those visible at rest) improve more modestly.
Dermal fillers offer immediate improvement, with results visible as soon as swelling subsides (typically within one to two weeks). Longevity depends on the product used and individual metabolism, ranging from 6 to 18 months.
Making the Right Choice
Fine lines are frustrating because they make you look tired, older, or less vibrant than you feel. Topical products provide modest support, but if you want meaningful, lasting improvement, regenerative treatments that rebuild collagen are essential.
PRP therapy stands out because it's autologous (using your own blood), minimally invasive, and supported by substantial clinical evidence. It addresses fine lines at the cellular level by stimulating genuine collagen production, resulting in long-lasting, natural-looking improvements.
If you're ready to pursue a treatment that genuinely reduces fine lines rather than temporarily masking them, consider booking a consultation. Expert assessment ensures you're choosing the approach most likely to deliver the results you want.
